It was just a tiny bite at the end of the meal, a demitasse half filled with sweet corn porridge flavored with coffee and Mexican chocolate, the spices and scents so familiar from childhood, reinforced with heavy cream to flood the palate. In an instant the warm atole, served with a pig-shaped gingerbread cookie –an homage to a panaderia treat–transported me back to San Antonio. When-o-when will Taco Maria start serving more substantial desserts? tacomaria.com –Anne Valdespino

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